Living and working in San Francisco, I truly appreciate the incredible selection of fresh produce available. Cooking with the variety of organic fruits and vegetables selected from the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market is a treat, and an opportunity most young chefs only dream of. So when choosing a restaurant for my Ment’or Grant, I was immediately drawn to Table, by Bruno Verjus, a restaurant in the 12th arrondissement of Paris that prides itself on its produce and a la minute cooking. 

Chef Bruno’s culinary philosophy is quite spectacular. He only works with local artisanal producers and farmers, and orders what is best at that very moment. This makes for a menu that changes daily, giving each customer a unique showcase of the beautiful ingredients that France has to offer. The team at Table also prides itself on processing everything a la minute. The vegetables are peeled and cooked right before serving, the sea urchin is cleaned and put directly on the plate, and the sauces are made daily using what was received that morning.

The kitchen at Table is quite small; there are only about 5-6 chefs, and everything is made fresh daily. There are no defined stations, and everybody does their part in getting the kitchen ready for service. This allowed me to experience many different areas of the kitchen. Every morning we set up the kitchen space and  broke down the fish and seafood order. No matter how cold, rainy or grey it was, standing outside to marvel at some of the freshest and nicest seafood I had ever seen was always a highlight of my day. We laid everything out in front of the sous chefs, who  checked the quality and figured out how to use them in that day's menu.

After everything was put away neatly, the kitchen went into full prep mode. I spent my first few weeks cleaning and preparing sardines. We would gut, clean, remove the heads, and pack them away into boxes where they had a chance to dry before we filetted and served them to our guests. I also helped prepare the lobsters for service with some herbs and garnishes,  Towards the end of my stage, I worked on the desserts. I made madeleine dough, ice creams, tart dough chocolate ganache and made sure everything was in place for service.

One of my favourite courses to prepare was the “couleurs du jour” or colours of the day, the first course on the menu. It was a mixture of raw and cooked vegetables and fruit that changed with the seasons, plated simply and beautifully with some herbs, oil and a vinaigrette. What I loved about it was not just how beautiful it looked, but the thought that went into selecting what was going to be used. Having the opportunity to go through the bins of incredible produce and selecting the most beautiful ones to put on this plate was always exciting. Whether it be tiny celery roots with the greens or beautiful summer squash with the flowers attached, there was always something special to showcase.

My stage at Table did not just teach me about ingredients and techniques. I learned a lot of organizational skills as well. Since there was not much time to prep throughout the day, staying organized was crucial. This was definitely one of the biggest things I struggled with, especially in the first weeks. Stepping into a new kitchen and learning the lay of the land is always a challenge. Along with the tight schedule and organizational skills required to succeed at Table, I definitely had my work cut out for me. 

I was also unaccustomed to how frequently everything changed. I work well with systems and repetition, so being in a position where things were constantly changing was definitely out of my comfort zone. The turning point for me came in my third week while working on the couleurs du jour dish. One of the sous chefs pointed out that my dishes were too consistent day after day. He explained that as we received new and different beautiful produce each day, I should think about what was the most beautiful, not simply pick what I know would work for the dish. I was not used to this kind of approach, but at that moment it clicked. It was not just about making good food, it was also about highlighting the beauty in the seasons.

All in all, my time at Table completely changed the way I view food and cooking. Not only did I get a chance to experience the wonderful assortment of seafood, game meats, fruits and vegetables that France had to offer, but I also learned a lot about being flexible in the kitchen and organizing myself. These skills have helped me to problem solve and pivot when something goes wrong, to stay calm in situations when things are not going  my way, and to view the ingredients I work with in a new light. The philosophy of Table is now something I hold near and dear to my heart, and definitely embodies much of what I will try to implement in my future culinary career.. It is an experience that has changed me forever, and I will always remember the incredible opportunity I was given.