At long last, it was a dream finish for Team USA in France.
Over the past two days, 24 chefs representing 24 countries have competed in the Bocuse d’Or, the culinary equivalent of the Olympics, held every two years in Lyon, France.
For the first time ever, the United States earned a spot on the podium, taking second place. In a competition typically dominated by Europe, it’s the highest finish ever for the Americans — by a longshot. Prior to this year, the Americans have never placed higher than sixth, when former French Laundry chef de cuisine Timothy Hollingsworth finished sixth in 2009.
Perennial powerhouse Norway won the competition, and Sweden finished third. Japan took home the special fish prize, and Finland was awarded the meat prize and top commis.
As in the past, there was a local connection with this year’s competitors, the French Laundry duo of chef Philip Tessier and his commis (assistant) Skylar Stover. They have both spent the last year training in Yountville for the competition, which requires cooking for five and a half hours in a stadium of manic, flag-waving fans; as you can see from the photos above, it’s an intense competition. Each team presents a panel of judges with a meat platter and a fish platter, using the year’s chosen proteins (this year, guinea hen, and brown trout, respectively) with ingredients from their home country; judges from each country grade the technique, the appearance and flavor of each dish.
Over the past decade or so, the Team USA production has steadily turned into a machine, led by the nation’s culinary leaders. The coaches for Team USA are renowned chefs Grant Achatz, Gavin Kaysen, and Gabriel Kreuther, and the Bocuse d’Or USA board is led by the likes of Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jerome Bocuse, among others.
But it hasn’t been easy, with years of frustration for the Americans. So this year’s triumph — even if it’s just the podium — should be especially sweet, particularly for coach Gavin Kaysen, the celebrated chef who finished 14th in 2007 amid very little national support and then spearheaded the team’s renaissance.
Some shots of the Team USA platters, via social media:
It’s been a long dry spell, but the U.S. culinary team is finally bringing home a ribbon from the Bocuse d’Or cooking competition. The French Laundry’s Phillip Tessier, aided by commis Skylar Stover, took second place in the bi-annual cook-off, which is held in Lyon, France, and is named for its favorite son, chef Paul Bocuse.
This is the first time in the competition’s 27-year history that the U.S. has earned a ribbon, though it wasn’t until the last decade that chefs Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud began to mount a serious push, raising money and sponsoring competitors.
Traditionally, the competition has been dominated by Scandinavian cooks, and this year’s first-place winner is Orjan Johannessen from Norway — the fifth time a Norwegian has won. Tommy Myllymaki from Sweden finished third.
The U.S.’ previous top finish was sixth, taken by Tim Hollingsworth in 2009. Hollingsworth, who was also working for the French Laundry at the time, is now in Los Angeles cooking barbecue at Barrel and Ashes and will be part of the team at the as-yet unnamed restaurant at the new Broad museum downtown.
Philip Tessier, of USA, prepares food during the “Bocuse d’Or” (Golden Bocuse) trophy, at the 15th World Cuisine contest, in Lyon, central France, Tuesday, Jan. 27, 2015. The contest, a sort of world cup of the cuisine, was started in 1987 by Lyon chef Paul Bocuse to reward young international culinary talents. (AP Photo/Laurent Cipriani)
On January 27-28, Chef Philip Tessier and his commis Skylar Stover of The French Laundry will go head to head with the world’s greatest chefs in the Bocuse d’Or, the most prestigious gastronomic competition in existence. Often dubbed the “Culinary Olympics,” the event is held every two years in Lyon, France and brings together the most promising chefs from 24 different countries as they cook for hours in front a live audience.
Chef Philip has been the Executive Sous Chef of The French Laundry for the past three years, overseeing the daily operations of the kitchen, and he’s been a part of the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group since he started work at Per Se in 2004. We talked to Philip all about the upcoming contest — what he’s learned from his mentors, how he’s training, and his predictions for next week in Lyon.
What was your reaction to being chosen as Team USA’s 2015 competitor?
This had always been a dream, but a dream that I watched others live. With three kids and a full-time job I simply assumed I would never have this opportunity, but when it became a reality I was overwhelmed. It took about a week for it to set in.
You attended the last Bocuse d’Or. What was your experience as a spectator like?
The support of the United States, and specifically the chefs who came and brought their support, was probably the most impactful moment for me. The noise, the intensity and the patriotism in the audience was extraordinary. I’ve never experienced anything like that before — it was incredible.
How has your work as sous chef at the French Laundry prepared you for the Bocuse d’Or?
Working at The French Laundry (TFL) requires a dedication, discipline, and determination unlike any other restaurant I have worked in. The responsibility and expectation placed on each individual forces you to grow as a chef and an individual in ways beyond just the walls of the kitchen. For the Bocuse d’Or, the same level of intensity and dedication are absolutely essential to have as a foundation. My training at TFL and with TKRG are the foundation on which this year’s training is built.
What have you learned from watching other chefs train for the competition over the years?
The most impactful observation I have had was in Sweden this past May, watching the Euro Finals. The calmness and methodical approach of the top competitors were impressive, and not the frenetic, mad dash approach I had been anticipating. Also, the best piece of advice I picked up was to do food you love and make it just that much nicer.
Tell us about the training program and what it entails.
It is a constant balance between development, refinement, and repetition. In the beginning we over-documented everything and created a lot of work for ourselves. Eventually we documented the general ideas and techniques, and when we decided to settle on one we then set out to refine it for flavor, texture, etc. as well as consistency and ease of preparation. As our time to focus on the competition has increased, we have been working six to seven days a week, 16 hours a day.
How do you work with your commis, Skylar Stover? Why did you choose him, and what set him apart from others?
The rules stipulate that the commis has to be 22 or younger at the time of the competition, so that was the first criteria to pass. Skylar showed an ability to receive direction and execute technical work consistently and accurately, which is what this competition requires. We work on ideas and practice them, and once we refine them to the level needed he works on them repeatedly until he masters them. It takes a lot of dedication and patience to work through it and not tire of the repetition.
What have been your biggest challenges in this process?
The biggest challenges to overcome are the rules, or lack thereof, in the competition. The rules seem to change every year and require an incredible amount of flexibility and adaptability in the process. Unfortunately, they changed the rules very late in the game so a lot of time, money, and effort were spent on beautiful pieces of service ware for the fish that we can no longer use because of these changes.
What about the rewards?
Working with Martin Kastner of Crucial Detail would be first and foremost. Martin has designed every mold, tool, platter, and service piece we are using. He is the most versatile, creative, and detail-oriented person I have worked with in this capacity, and our relationship was above all the most important. He has opened up a world of possibilities to me — much as he did for Alinea and Grant Achatz over the past decade.
What can other chefs and restaurants in the United States learn from following the competition?
There is much to learn if you look beyond the package that is presented by the press and media. Young chefs in our country should look deeper into the rewards and enrichment that this kind of opportunity brings an individual. When else in one’s career do you find the time to set aside and develop food and ideas in such an amazing environment?
Any predictions for the 2015 competition? What do you expect to see in Lyon?
Scandinavia, France, and the U.K. will bring some amazing food and ideas to the competition, as they have in recent years. As the underdogs, I think we will surprise everyone with what we have put together…hopefully to great results!
Watch this video from the last Bocuse d’Or competition for more information, and tune in here on January 27 to watch a live broadcast of the competition.
While millions of Americans tune in to reality competitions like MasterChef Junior and The Taste, few are aware that the biggest championship in cooking is about to take place: the Bocuse d’Or, widely considered the Olympics of haute cuisine.
Every two years, chefs from around the world converge in Lyon, France, to prove their prowess to an exacting panel of judges. Each team of one chef and one commis (or assistant) cooks the same meat and fish — this year, guinea hen and brown trout — and tries to impress the judges with unique presentation and use of secondary ingredients from their home countries. France has won seven times in 14 competitions; an American team has never even taken home the bronze medal.
Naturally, this year’s Team U.S.A. hopes to change that. Philip Tessier, 35, Executive Sous Chef at The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., will be assisted by his commis Skylar Stover, 22, who also works in the kitchen there. Twelve teams will cook for nearly six hours on Jan. 27; another dozen will compete on Jan. 28, with winners being announced at the end. The entire event will be live-streamed.
The pair have spent the last year training intensively for their program, a process that includes everything from honing technique to endurance training at the gym. “I want to look back and know I did everything I possibly could to be ready for it,” Tessier says, “so maintaining a sense of physical discipline is certainly going to be a benefit to us.”
As for planning the actual dishes they will serve, Tessier has had some help from a team of coaches in the Ment’or program, the American organization that selects and trains Team U.S.A. for the Bocuse d’Or. Among the mentors: their French Laundry boss, Thomas Keller, as well as Daniel Boulud and several competitors from previous years.
While many young chefs are eager to strike out and lead their own restaurants, Tessier has always valued the education that comes with working for a great chef. From his culinary beginnings at the Williamsburg Inn in Virginia, to his training at the Culinary Institute of America, to stints in France, to working at powerhouse restaurants like Le Bernardin, Per Se, Bouchon and finally The French Laundry, he’s been satisfied to take his time climbing the ladder. “We have too many students come out of [culinary] school that want to be a sous chef the next day,” he says. “You can do that, but my old chef used to say, ‘I’d rather be at the bottom of the top than the top of the bottom.’ I think that is a great way of saying, take your time to get there.”
This kind of patience and precision will serve him well at the Bocuse, where fastidious technique is valued above all.
Over the last several months, Tessier and his team of mentors have honed their plans for presenting the guinea hen and brown trout. They can use garnishes on both the fish plate and the meat platter — partly with produce provided in Lyon, but ideally also making use of ingredients from their home country. For Danes and Germans, this means shipping fresh fruits and vegetables from just a few hours away, but for the U.S. team, it’s a logistical nightmare.
“Part of the whole thing is they want to see the country represent their country,” Tessier says. “So obviously, the argument is you need your own food to do that. [But] is that mustard flower going to be intact three days later, 5,000 miles away? It’s pretty questionable. That’s our challenge.”
The team did a training run on shipping in November, and the produce held up well, giving them hope that they’ll have similarly good results this month.
Unfortunately, even if Tessier and Stover do beat the odds and place in the top three, the prize may not mean as much back home as it does for their competitors. When former Team U.S.A. chef Gavin Kaysen was at a dinner party in Sweden and his companions found out he’d been in the Bocuse d’Or, they assumed he must be very famous in his country. “Over there,” Tessier says, “when you come home with a bronze, you’re a national hero. It just shows you that reverence for gastronomy and history and tradition is very deeply seeded there — and it’s becoming increasingly so here.”
For Tessier, it may take bringing home a gold medal to finally teach Americans about the high-pressure stage that is the Bocuse d’Or.
After over a year of training, Team USA, comprised of Chef Phil Tessier and his Commis Skylar Stover, podium for the first time in the competition’s history.
(New York, NY; January 28, 2015) – The ment’or BKB Foundation proudly announces Team USA’s podium placement of second place in the 2015 Bocuse d’Or cooking competition in Lyon, France! Over the course of the past two days, 24 teams of the most gifted culinary minds from across the world competed on behalf of their country and represented their nation at the World Cooking Contest. Team USA competed on January 27 and presented the acclaimed panel of judges with a stunning meat platter of Barrel-Oak Roasted Guinea Hen with sausage of guinea leg confit, white corn mousse, and black winter truffle, “Garden of Sweet Peas” with French Laundry garden blossoms and herbs, sugar snap peas, and black trumpet mushroom panade, “Beehive” with boudin of smoked guinea liver, grapevine honey, pistachio “Pain des Genes,” wild fennel buds, and topaz wine glaze, Black Truffle Consommé with ragout of gizzard and heart “confit,” steamed custard, and flowering cress, White Corn “Nest” with buttered corn pudding, crisped corn silk, and “petit” popcorn, and Preserved Chanterelles with salad of frisée and garden blossoms, pickled huckleberry, and “foie gras” jus. The gorgeous fish plate showcased Brioche-Crusted Brown Trout Pave with American caviar, tartelette of crisped skin, garden dill, celery branch “Farci,” celery root puree, compressed apples, brown butter emulsion, and smoked mushroom consommé. Both the meat platter and the fish plate were designed by the lauded Martin Kastner.
“I’m honored to have represented the USA at one of the most well-respected culinary competitions in the world, surrounded by esteemed culinary talent from all over the globe,” says Chef Phil Tessier. “Training for the Bocuse d’Or was a humbling process, and we diligently prepared as best we could. Learning from our Coaches and Board was an invaluable experience, and I’m proud that as a team, we were able to work together to achieve second place and be part of culinary history for the USA.”
“Chef Tessier is an outstanding representation of the talent we have in the United States, and we’re incredibly proud that, for the first time in our history of competing in the Bocuse d’Or, we placed on the podium,” says Chef Thomas Keller, president of ment’or. “From the start, we were confident that he would successfully lead Team USA, and have thoroughly enjoyed mentoring him through this incredibly rigorous training process. American cuisine has significantly progressed in recent history, and Chef Tessier’s talent is an example of the strides we are making in our field. Our hope is that America continues to support our endeavors to showcase what great chefs and cuisine we have in the United States.”
Often dubbed the “Culinary Olympics” the Bocuse d’Or is among the most demanding international cooking competitions, and chefs competing cooked for five hours and thirty five minutes in front of thousands of cheering fans. The competition takes place every two years. Team USA is recruited, trained, and funded by the ment’or BKB Foundation, a leading nonprofit organization devoted to inspiring culinary excellence in young professionals and preserving the traditions and quality of cuisine in America. Ment’or was founded by Chefs Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, and Jérôme Bocuse, all of whom train Team USA along with Coaches Gavin Kaysen of Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis, MN, Gabriel Kreuther formerly of The Modern in New York, NY, Grant Achatz of Alinea and Next in Chicago, IL, Dave Beran of Next in Chicago, IL, and Richard Rosendale, formerly of The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, WV. For more information about the Foundation visit www.mentorbkb.org or find the organization on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
About the ment’or BKB Foundation
The ment’or BKB Foundation is a nonprofit organization that aims to inspire excellence in young culinary professionals and preserve the traditions and quality of classic cuisine in America. Ment’or is led by a Board of Directors including Chefs Jérôme Bocuse, Daniel Boulud, and Thomas Keller, as well as an esteemed Culinary Council of over forty renowned chefs nationwide who act as mentors for young chefs, serve in an advisory capacity to the organization, and participate in fundraising events. Educational grants and internships are offered to young professionals through the Grants Program. A series of Young Chef Competitions offer yet another opportunity for young professionals to further their careers in the culinary world. Ment’or is also responsible for recruiting, training, and financially supporting the promising young American chefs who compete on behalf of the United States in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or competition, held in Lyon France, every two years.
Before Top Chef, MasterChef and the million other cooking competitions running on TV, there was only one battle for culinary supremacy that truly mattered: the Bocuse d’Or. The Olympics of the culinary world was created in 1987 by legendary chef Paul Bocuse as a way to combine the glory of live sporting events with the masterful tradition of French cooking. Over the course of two days, 24 nations go head-to-head (to-head-to-head-to-head) in a five-and-a-half-hour test of technique, creativity and sheer stamina for the honor of taking home a tiny trophy shaped like a French guy. The competition begins today and wraps up Wednesday evening (Lyon time). You can follow all the action on the livestream (Update: the livestream returns tomorrow at 3 a.m. EST.)
Every two years, duos from all over the world compete to represent their country in Lyon – home of the now 88-year-old Bocuse (named Chef of the Century by the Culinary Institute of America) and unofficial capital of the gastronomic world. Great chefs have been coming out of Lyon for a century, from Eugénie Brazie to the brothers Troisgros to Daniel Boulud, so it only makes sense to hold the contest there. Although it started as a somewhat sedate affair, the event is now a sort of Foodie World Cup, with chanting, cheering and raucous nationalism erupting regularly in the Eurexpo/SIRHA Chef’s Arena. This shift in atmosphere came about thanks in part to the 1997 Mexican team, who – no joke – brought a mariachi band to cheer them on.
The Bocuse d’Or isn’t some kind of quick-fire challenge, where chefs have to make a burrito out of ingredients found in a vending machine. It’s a competition that doubles as a tribute to the history of French cuisine, which means two designated proteins prepared in the most elaborate way possible.
Teams are judged on quality, presentation, teamwork, cleanliness and lack of waste. Unlike those TV cooking shows, there are no major surprises here when it comes to ingredients. Teams found out that they’d be cooking guinea fowl back in September; the fish, brown river trout, was announced in December. That means the participants have been able to create, design and perfect their dishes for months. As chef Phil Tessier of Team USA says, “This is like a gymnast or a figure skater. Maybe you can do a triple jump or 16 backflips in a row, but then you have to put it into a program where it all fits together.”
Tessier, executive sous chef at the French Laundry and longtime Thomas Keller disciple, will be competing with his commis, Skylar Stover, chef de partie at the French Laundry. In past years, the selection process for Team USA has been comparable to the Olympic trials: Hopeful chefs compete in regional competitions until the final team is selected. Not this year. For 2015, Ment’or BKB, the organization that picks Team USA, decided to save its financial resources and focus them all on training. That meant a straight application process for the chefs, and the selection of two French Laundry toques comes as no surprise – the K in Ment’or BKB stands for Keller, the group’s president (the two Bs represent chairman Daniel Boulud and vice president Jerome Bocuse, son of Paul).
So do the Americans have a chance of winning this thing? At the very least, they’re hopeful. “We have a humble confidence,” says Tessier. “We wouldn’t do it if we didn’t think we were going to [win].”
History isn’t on their side, though. Since first entering the competition in 2009, the Americans have only placed as high as sixth. This year, the competition promises to be just as stiff. Tommy Myllymäki (silver in 2011) is back representing Sweden, and the Scandinavian countries (Norway, Sweden and Denmark) are considered favorites after placing in the top three every year since 1991. The French can’t be counted out – they’ve won the gold seven times, and they’re technically the home team – while the Japanese are climbing in stature after placing third in the 2013 games.
On Tuesday, history won’t mean a thing. About 2,500 fans (including me) from five different continents will descend upon Lyon, and whichever nation can present the best guinea fowl/brown trout platters of their entire lives will earn the food world’s highest honor. Will France take home a record eighth title? Can first-time entrants Chile get near the podium? Will the Americans finally taste glory? I’ll be in Lyon to answer all of these questions, and we’ll know the results on Thursday. Until then, may the best trout win.
Update: Jason Kessler reports from Lyon. “Team USA just presented at 9:30 a.m. EST. Buzz is very strong. A Michelin-starred chef told me he thinks the Americans were the best of the day. I agree. And that’s including the French who also went today.”
The ment’or BKB Foundation’s Board of Directors and Management selected Tessier and Stover to compete based on their dedication to the craft, experience working in precise and innovative kitchens, technical expertise, and their steadfast desire to place USA on the podium in 2015.
“I’ve followed the Bocuse d’Or closely for years, and was inspired to apply after my trip to watch the competition in Lyon in January of 2013,” says Tessier. “It was there I realized that the Bocuse d’Or is not an individual competition – it is in the strength of the team that success and victory lie. It’s not just about preparing the dishes; it’s about impacting the perception of American chefs and our country on the worldwide stage. I want to unite the US in that common goal.”
Tessier currently serves as Executive Sous Chef at The French Laundry. Stover is currently the Chef de Partie at The French Laundry.
Chef Philip Tessier and his young Commis, Skylar Stover, of Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Yountville, CA are going for the gold in 2015. The pair is the newest Bocuse d’Or USA Team, representing the nation at the World Cooking Contest in Lyon, France on January 27th and 28th. Often described as the “Culinary Olympics,” the Bocuse d’Or (staged every other year) is among the most demanding international cooking competitions, pitting chefs from twenty-four countries against one another in an intense five and a half hour cooking challenge in front of thousands of cheering fans.
Clark and Marcy share their favorite restaurants; Chef Gavin Kaysen, former Executive Chef and Director of Culinary Operations for Daniel Boulud in New York City and Head Coach of Team USA for the Bocuse d’O,r tells us all about the most difficult cooking competition in the world, his recently opened restaurant in Minneapolis Spoon and Stable, and more; we talk all about the 2015 Yosemite Chef’s Holidays with Kathy Langley, the Signature Events Manager; how long should you wait to try a new restaurant?
